The fittings needed to delete the ABS can be purchased from a local parts store or I can provide you with the correct fittings for $25 and you will have to buy 3 or 4 brake lines. I recommend only a experienced mechanic to do any work on the brake system and this modification is for off road use only.
Since the k-member was replaced I started by modifying the factory brake hose bracket as seen in the first picture and bolting it to the frame.
I ran a 3/16 brake line from the master cylinder down to a 3/16 inverted brake tee. From there one line runs to the drivers side rubber brake hose. When connecting to the rubber hose you will have to use a 10x1.0mm male bubble flare to 3/16 inverted female flare.(2 required)
If using a line lock the line coming out of the master cylinder would have ran into the line lock and then into the tee.
The other line from the tee I ran accross the back of the fire wall and down to the passenger side brake hose. I choose to go this route so that I could drop the K-member without undoing any of the brake lines.
To connect the rear brakes to the master cylinder I cut the factory line and used a 1/4" steel brake line nut. I double flared the line. Then I screwed that to a 1/4 to 3/16 inverted flare addapter. From ther I ran a 3/16 brake line up to the master cylinder.
Since this is a drag car with slicks and skinnies the front brakes will tend to have less stopping force then the rear brakes. So I did not use a brake proportioning valve. If I was running four equal sized tires I would have used the proportioning valve in between the master cylinder and rear brake line.
